Saba Island

Saba Island, located East of the US Virgin Islands, is part of the Netherlands Antilles and as such part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands.  Saba is ideal for the traveler looking for a secluded haven, in peaceful and friendly surroundings. Rising steeply from the azure sea, the tiny island in the Caribbean is a magical experience far away from the cares and worries of today's hurried world.

Four small villages are as quaint and charming as the gentle, friendly manner of the Saban people, descended from hardy 17th century pioneers. Visitors feel they have stepped back in history, yet many modern luxuries are here to be enjoyed.  Saba is a monument to nature's best above and below the ocean's surface. The famous Saba Marine Park is second to none.  Saba is a magical place for scuba diving, hiking, admiring the nature or honeymooning!

Superb diving is the reason most tourists make it to Saba.  A marine park was designated in 1987, and carefully controlled operation of the dive sites scattered throughout the park (which surrounds the entire island) has kept the reefs in pristine condition.  Visibility is excellent and, as well as fine coralheads near the surface for snorkelling, there are sheer walls dropping to over 300m just offshore.  Most of the best dive sites are on the calmer, western side of the island, where you'll find great pinnacle dives as well as ridges and beautiful coral gardens.

Operators include Saba Deep (tel 599-416-3347), Saba Reef (tel 599-416-2541) and Sea Saba (tel 599-416-2246).  Rates are normally $50/90 for a one-/two-tank dive, $65 for a night dive and $30 for a snorkelling trip, with an extra charge for equipment.  A resort course for first-time divers costs around $80 and (if there are three or more takers) a full certification course taught over four or five days runs about $350.  Bear in mind that prices normally come down significantly if you visit the island as part of a package that includes diving.  For example, seven nights accommodation and ten dives cost $992/1138 per person at Juliana's ($822/889 if two divers are sharing a room) and $680 year-round at El Momo, booked through Sea Saba.  Check the websites of the dive operators and the hotels for the latest deals, which change frequently.

Saba Map

Hiking on Saba

The most popular hike on the island is from Windwardside up Mount Scenery, up 1064 concrete steps. The path is easy to follow, starting just west of the tourist office, but it's a tough climb, taking an hour to ninety minutes to reach the top.  Don't be put off; it's well worth the effort for the fantastic views and gorgeous tropical and quasi-Alpine vegetation.  Much of the hike goes through secondary rainforest, with elephant ear ferns and mountain palms among some of the dramatic plants.

At the summit is an undisturbed and beautiful elfin forest of large mountain mahogany trees, their trunks and branches often covered in mosses, bromeliads and ferns.  As for wildlife, you're sure to see colourful butterflies and birds as you climb, among them hummingbirds, bananaquits and tremblers if you're lucky, and you may spot a harmless racer snake slithering through the undergrowth.

There are several shelters en route to the summit, but there's nowhere to get refreshments so take water with you.  As it can get very hot, particularly between noon and 2pm, plan to start your climb early in the morning, preferably on a relatively cloudless day, and take the best-grip footwear you've got.  Once at the top (which can get rather chilly) don't miss the grand lookout over the neighbouring islands; to reach it head left of the communications tower and continue 100m along the pathway.

There are a couple of interesting side trails to the Mount Scenery climb.  The round-trip Maskehorne Hill Track, veering off to the left near a small farmer's hut about fifteen minutes into your climb, adds another twenty minutes to your journey. It's a stiff clamber over large boulders and thick tree roots into the heart of the rainforest, ending on an outcrop of rocks that offers a dramatic view over Booby Hill and out to sea, before you retrace your path to the steps.

Further up the mountain, the delightful Crispeen Track cuts off to the west, passing through pastureland and farming plots before reaching the isolated Mountain Cottage, from where another lovely walk (Bod's Mountain Track) heads off to the right and then sharply right again to lead up the southwestern side of Mount Scenery.  Alternatively, continue ahead at Mountain Cottage and follow the track down through a steep valley, flanked by abundant rainforest for about twenty minutes and you'll reach the deserted hamlet of Crispeen. The place was originally named for St Crispin - the patron saint of shoemakers; Dominican priest Père Labat, who visited Saba in 1701, wrote that "the Sabans ply trade in no other business except shoemaking".  Beyond Crispeen the track descends along a rather less interesting stone path down to The Bottom, from where it's easy to hitch a ride back to Windwardside.

For other hiking options on Saba, get hold of a copy of the Trail Guide pamphlet and the Saba Conservation Foundation's booklet Saban Trails from the tourist office in Windwardside or the trail office across the road from the tourist office.